Ever since I was a little girl, I’ve wanted to go on holiday
with my horse. Of course, when I was a child, there was a slight flaw to the
concept: I didn’t have a horse. Much later, when I finally got a horse, years
went by but the opportunity never arose. And then one night, earlier this year,
Marie-Valentine Gygax, my long-time trainer and friend, met part of the Massa
team at an international dressage competition in Saumur, France. And between
you and me, from what I’ve heard about that evening, a great time was had by all
those present…
My
Lusitano, Qrac de la Font, is a Massa. Qrac comes from the Massa stud in
the south of France, but I didn’t buy him from there as he’d been sold to his
previous owner as a three or four year-old. In all honesty, when I first saw
Qrac neither Marie-Valentine nor I had any idea of how prestigious his Massa
bloodlines were; we knew next to nothing about PREs or Lusitanos. She’d never
sourced anything but German or Dutch warmbloods for clients before, and I was
totally clueless.
When I bought Qrac, all I knew about the Massa stud (Elevage
Massa) was that one of their Lusitanos, Galopin de la Font, had qualified for
the Beijing Olympics, which struck me as pretty impressive for a French breeder
of Portuguese horses. But I wasn’t going into buying a new horse with the idea
of doing much competing; until very recently it’s never been my thing. I bought
Qrac because I fell for him at first sight, despite the fact that he didn’t
tick all the boxes in what I was looking for in a horse. Ideally, I wanted a
horse with fa
r more established work, and Qrac was a very green seven-year old.
Our first weeks together were rather tumultuous, and there were definitely
moments when I thought I might have bought myself a little too much horse!
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Qrac enjoying the view of one of the arenas at Château Font du Broc |
Fast-forward two and a half years, and love, dedication and
hard work have produced a wonderful partnership. Call me soppy, but I get a
rush of sheer joy every time I arrive at the stables and see his handsome arched
neck and beautiful head. Qrac has a gentle, affectionate personality and a great work ethic. Also, from the
feedback I regularly receive whenever we venture out in public, I’ve come to
realize that he’s also recognisably “Massa”. For example, a few weeks ago, just
as he and I were coming out of the arena after completing our best program ever
at a show (we got our first plate! Yay!), a young woman approached me and asked
if my horse was a Massa. This had happened to me before so I wasn’t totally
surprised, but for the first time ever it occurred to me that people were
seeing Massa horses in the same light as a high-end brand, if only on a
sub-conscious level.
Another thing I’ve noticed since I bought “a Massa horse” is
how much criticism surrounds this breeder, especially from owners of non-Massa
Lusitanos. You wouldn’t believe the nasty stories I heard whispered behind my
back about my horse when I first moved to my current stables a year and a half
ago. As for the gossip and bitchiness surrounding how Sylvain Massa developed
his stud farm at Château Font du Broc in Les Arcs-sur-Argens in the south of
France, it’s all so preposterous that it always struck me as sour grapes. However,
I must admit that the bitchiness got to a point where it bothered me; criticize
Sylvain Massa and you’re indirectly criticizing my horse. Why are people always
so jealous of success? According to some of the mudslingers I’ve met, Elevage
Massa’s nomination as France’s number one breeder of dressage horses in 2012
was nothing but a giant scam. As for the atmosphere at Château Font du Broc,
according to these naysayers it was horrendously snooty and unpleasant.
The more backstabbing I heard, the more I wanted to see for
myself, so when Marie-Valentine returned from Saumur and recounted her
fortuitous nocturnal meeting with a mile-wide smile I was even more eager to
go. My girlfriend Joëlle and I had had plans to go and do a dressage clinic
with another trainer in the north of France in July, but Joëlle’s PRE’s long-term
injury wasn’t getting better, so we’d cancelled because I didn’t want to drive
up there all alone. Now, Joëlle’s horse seemed a little better and the idea of
going to the south of France, riding in the mornings and spending the afternoons
lying by a pool held a definite appeal, especially after our never-ending
winter. So I emailed Anne-Sophie at Château Font du Broc and asked if there was
any possibility of ten days dressage training and accommodation for two horses
in July. I was delighted when she answered they’d be happy to have us.
Unfortunately, Joëlle’s horse’s injury worsened again, so
when we set off earlier this month Qrac was alone in the trailer, but Joëlle
had made arrangements with Font du Broc to ride some of their schoolmasters in
order to improve her skills. She had also tentatively told them that she was
thinking about buying another horse, as her current PRE’s prospects of
returning to work seemed increasingly compromised. However, Joëlle insisted,
this was early stages and she would only seriously start looking for a new
horse as of September. No way would come back to Switzerland with another
horse.
Famous last words!
The drive down to Font du Broc seemed endless; we loaded
Qrac at five in the morning and finally made it to our destination
approximately nine hours later. Both of us were exhausted; excitement had kept
us up most of the night, but Qrac behaved angelically throughout the trip,
never bothering about the massive trucks lumbering up behind him. Qrac also
settled right into his massive, super luxurious stable, knee deep in straw, and
didn’t fuss or freak out when Francisco, one of the Massa trainers, kindly
offered to take him to stretch his legs for fifteen minutes or so after his
long trip. I’d have walked Qrac myself but once Joëlle and I had unloaded all
my horsey equipment (yes, I practically took the kitchen sink) we had to rush
off to find the guest house we’d be staying at as the hosts had to go out for
dinner.
With riding lessons scheduled for eight o’clock the next
morning, virtually no sleep the previous night, and nine hours of trailering
down busy French motorways, Joëlle and I could barely rustle up enough energy
to go out for dinner. But we were starving, so we zombied out towards the
closest village and staggered through the door of the first restaurant we came
across. We got lucky; the food was delicious, although the service was slower
than we’d have liked considering the circumstances. We then zombied back to the
guest house and fell into bed before dark, excited yet also slightly nervous
about how our riding lessons might go. We’d been so exhausted upon arriving at
Font du Broc that the jaw-dropping beauty of the place hadn’t quite registered.
Trust me, it definitely registered the following morning.
As equestrian facilities go, I’ve never seen anything so
beautiful. Nor have I ever seen so many serene-eyed, beautifully kept, stunning
horses. A team of grooms fussed over them as they prepared them for their
designated riders, kissing their noses, chatting to them and among each other
happily. The atmosphere was relaxed, professional and friendly. My assigned
trainer, Renaud Ramadier, (who had already made a great impression on me the
previous afternoon when he kindly offered to park my trailer for me. I hate
parking my trailer; reversing stresses me out!), greeted me with a lovely smile
and a series of French customary kisses, complimenting me on Qrac’s condition
which he said had improved immensely since the last time he’d seen him,
approximately four years ago, when Qrac had been sent back to Font du Broc for
a few weeks training. Joëlle’s trainer, Francisco, had prepared Nativo, a
Grand-Prix schoolmaster for her, and from Nativo’s condition it was hard to
believe he was twenty-years old. Over the next ten days, Joëlle spent many
hours in heaven as this wonderful horse gave her a taste of what it is to ride
dressage’s most difficult movements.
I loved my first lesson with Renaud, which took place in
Font du Broc’s indoor arena, an incredible stone building with stained glass
windows, chandeliers, and huge mirrors draped with heavy golden-yellow
curtains. The arena is apparently an exact replica of the indoor arena of the
famous Cadre Noir school in Saumur, and both Joëlle and I felt as though we
were riding in a church. Renaud told me to warm up Qrac as I usually do,
watching carefully from the gallery before stepping down into the arena and
getting the party started. Initially, his main comment was that Qrac tends to
either escape through his outside shoulder, or fall onto his inside shoulder,
especially tracking right, and I wasn’t about to contradict him since I’ve been
working on this recurring problem since day one. Also, Renaud noted, although
the overall outline looks good, we tend to cheat a little, and Qrac needs to
learn to carry himself “like the big boy he is”.
With this in mind, over the next ten days Renaud helped Qrac
and I work on improving our balance, stay in a more regular rhythm, and establish
more self-carriage in order to progress to more complex exercises. We rode
miles and miles of shoulder-in in all three paces on the second track, worked
on travers and then moved on to half-passes, improving to the point that by the
end of our stay we were doing pretty good zig-zag half-passes! As early as four
days into our stay, Qrac felt like a different horse; he seemed to grow ten
centimetres beneath me, developing a power I’d never felt before. In fact, when
I posted photos on Facebook, friends from my stables in Switzerland later told
me they hadn’t dared comment as they weren’t sure the horse I was riding was
actually Qrac! Can a horse change so dramatically in such a short time? Or were
the photographs just really well timed?!
Renaud also helped Qrac and I establish the basics of
piaffe, which I found very exciting. Qrac amazed me by not becoming the
slightest bit flustered by this new exercise and immediately understood what he
was meant to do. The problem I now face is that, so far, I’ve found nobody to
practise this with at home, and I’m not confident enough to work on it myself.
What I particularly enjoyed about working with Renaud was that his enthusiasm
and his determination to push Qrac and I beyond our limits, to bring out the
best in us, to get me to feel the movements on a whole new level. He also had a
great sense of humour,
making everything fun, keeping the mood light-hearted
yet working us hard. Renaud also rode Qrac a couple of times, while I watched
and drooled. Who knew my horse could move like that?!
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Renaud Ramadier on Qrac |
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Joëlle and Umbrella de Massa |
As for Joëlle, her tentative quest for another horse got off
to a rubber-burning start when Renaud mentioned she might like to try Umbrella
de Massa, a five-year-old Lusitano Sport mare out of Oldenburg Rubin Cortes and
Qarioca de la Font, a Lusitano mare sired by the aforementioned Olympian,
Galopin de la Font. Umbrella had very little work for a five-year-old due to
the great number of colts born during the same year, so she’d been broken in
and then returned to pasture for two years. Renaud Ramadier had started riding
her again early this year and had really liked her. Well, so did Joëlle. She
took a series of lessons on the young mare and got along remarkably well with
her, telling me right after the very first time she rode her that she’d “felt
right at home.” Qrac and Umbrella got along very well too; the four of us went
on wonderful long trail rides through the vastness of Font du Broc, with the
grand finale being a cooling splash in one of the large, beautiful ponds on the
property. This was kindly photographed by Renaud and fellow-trainer Ludovic
Martin, who zoomed down to the pond on a quad bike in order to capture this monumental
moment! Ludo had been away on holiday during most of our stay, but we got to
know him over the last few days and were thoroughly charmed by his big,
colourful personality, not to mention his top-notch equestrian skills. I’d
wanted to go into the pond with Qrac since the moment we arrived at Font du
Broc, having seen dozens of beautiful photos of Ludo fooling around in the pond
on horseback over the past few years (we’ve been Facebook friends for a while),
but the fact that he and Renaud went out of their way to drive down and take
photos of us in the water with our horses (yes, Joëlle totally caved and bought
Umbrella!) was very touching.
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Qrac and Umbrella, they practically match! |
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Château Font du Broc, the boutique and garden area |
Our entire stay at Font du Broc was fantastic. The lessons
were excellent, my horse was extremely well looked after, and the property manages
to be stunning, peaceful and spectacular, yet without an ounce of ostentation.
Everyone was friendly, helpful, going out of their way to make our stay the
most enjoy
able possible, be it the team at the stables, the administrative staff,
or the ladies who run the lovely boutique selling Font du Broc’s wine and olive
oil. Marion, head of administration at Elevage Massa, was brilliant. When
Joëlle decided to buy Umbrella, Marion still drove us to see the younger horses
at Chateau Bretonne over in Saint Martin de Crau, close to two hours
away, to
make sure there wasn’t a three-year-old over there Joëlle might be interested
in buying instead. We loved seeing all the youngsters; the three-year-olds, the
two-year-olds and the yearlings, all friendly and content, all healthy looking
and used to
being handled. We were shown a selection of three-year-olds in the
indoor arena, and if I could I’d definitely have treated myself to a gorgeous
black, very uphill Lusitano (yes, I know, I already have a black one…) with big
floaty paces. Joëlle admired a lovely grey guy with a playful personality, but
her heart was already set on Umbrella. Marion later took us to visit the brood mares
and their babies at another locale, where we oohed and ahh-ed at the dozens of
little beauties flocking around us, all of them gentle and curious. Marion also
amazed us with the efficiency with which she organised the paperwork to enable
Joëlle to bring Umbrella back to Switzerland; once the mare had passed the
vet-check the timeframe to get everything ready was extremely tight, but Marion
made calls and rushed around and made it happen. Early on Monday morning,
Joëlle and I loaded our two sleepy horses into my trailer and reluctantly set
off on the long trip home, already working on potential dates to return to this
incredible place as soon and as often as possible.
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Some three-year old Massa stallions |
Unfortunately, it’s unlikely we’ll be able to go back before
next spring, which seems a long way off right now. Next time we go, I’m hoping we’ll get the
chance to meet Anne-Sophie, Sylvain Massa’s companion, who was away on holiday
with Sylvain while we were there. Anne-Sophie handled my initial emails about
coming to Font du Broc with Qrac, organised our stay, regularly checked on us
and remained reachable by phone the entire time. She was also sweet enough to
make sure we came away with Massa caps and Massa saddle cloths to match our
Massa horses. And what will these two Massa owners be wearing when temperatures
drop? Why, our matching Massa jackets, of course!
Believe me, after an experience like ours, I defy anyone to
not become a diehard fan.
Have you ever had a similar experience? Do you enjoy going on holiday with your horse?